How to ask your barber for a haircut as a black man - [Part 1]

A trip to the barbershop should be a refreshing experience, leaving you feeling sharp, confident, and renewed. Yet, for many, there's a moment of anxiety when sitting in the chair, struggling to translate the perfect haircut in their mind into words. This is especially true given the precision and artistry involved in many hairstyles for Black men. The key to bridging this gap lies in clear communication. Mastering the art of the barber consultation ensures you and your barber are on the same page, turning your vision into a reality.

Step 1: Do Your Homework Before You Go

The foundation of a great haircut is laid before you even walk into the barbershop. A little preparation can make all the difference and empowers you to ask for exactly what you want.

Find Visual References: This is the single most effective tip for getting the haircut you desire. Barbers are visual artists. A picture eliminates ambiguity and provides a concrete reference point.

• Search for Inspiration: Use websites, social media, or magazines to find photos of haircuts you like. Save multiple angles if possible—front, side, and back. These different views give your barber a comprehensive understanding of the style.

  
  

• Be Realistic: When choosing photos, try to find people with a similar hair texture and head shape to your own. This will give you a more accurate idea of how the style might look on you. A style that looks great on someone with a different hair type might not translate the same way to yours.

Learn the Lingo: While a picture is worth a thousand words, knowing some basic terminology can help you refine the details and discuss modifications with precision. Understanding these terms will help you articulate your preferences clearly.

• Fade: This refers to the gradual tapering of hair length down the sides and back. It's a hallmark of many Black male hairstyles. Variations include the Low Fade (starts just above the ear), Mid Fade (starts at the middle of the head), and High Fade (starts near the temples). A Skin Fade or Bald Fade means the hair tapers all the way down to the skin.

  
  

• Taper vs. Fade: While often used interchangeably, a "taper" can also refer to a more conservative version of a fade that is less dramatic and typically focused on cleaning up the neckline and sideburns, leaving more length on the sides. A Blowout or Temple Fade focuses the fade specifically around the temples.

  
  

• Line-Up / Shape-Up / Edge-Up: This is the process of creating sharp, clean lines around the hairline, including the forehead, temples, sideburns, and back of the neck. It's what gives a haircut its crisp, defined finish.

  
  

• Guard Numbers: Barbers use numbered guards on their clippers to determine the length of the hair being cut. The lower the number, the shorter the hair. A #1 guard will leave a very short buzz, while a #4 or #5 will leave more length. Knowing the numbers you prefer from a previous cut can be very helpful for consistent results.

Step 2: The In-Chair Consultation

This is the most critical conversation. Don’t be shy; a good barber wants you to be specific. They would rather spend a few extra minutes understanding your desired look than have a dissatisfied client.

Start with the Big Picture: Begin by showing your barber the photo(s) you saved. Explain what you like about the haircut in the picture. Point out specific elements, such as "I like how high the fade is here" or "I like the texture on top."

Get Specific About the Details: This is where knowing the lingo comes in handy. Use your reference photo as a guide to articulate the specifics of your cut.

• The Fade: "I'd like a mid-skin fade, but can you drop it down in the back?" or "Let's do a low taper fade, I need to keep it professional." If you’re unsure, you can ask for your barber's expert opinion.

  
  

• The Top: Specify how much hair you want taken off the top. You can use clipper guard numbers ("Take a number 4 on top") or use your fingers to show the length you want to keep. If you have twists, an afro, or waves, be clear about how you want them treated. Do you want to shape your afro? Trim the twists? Be explicit.

  
  

• The Line-Up: Discuss the hairline. Do you want a natural, rounded shape or a sharp, straight line? Do you want a widow's peak defined or softened? A good barber will often make a recommendation based on your natural hairline, but the final decision is yours.

  
  

• The Back: Talk about the nape, or the neckline at the back. Common options are rounded, squared, or tapered (following the natural hairline).

Talk About Your Lifestyle and Routine: Explain your personal style and how much effort you're willing to put into maintenance. For example, telling your barber, "I work in an office, so I need a look that's clean-cut," or "I don't have a lot of time in the morning, so I need something low-maintenance," gives them valuable context. Discussing your hair care routine can also help them recommend products or styles that will work well for you.

Step 3: During and After the Cut

Communication shouldn't stop once the clippers turn on. Your involvement continues until you're completely satisfied with the result.

Pay Attention: Watch what the barber is doing. If you see something that concerns you, speak up politely. It’s much easier to correct a cut midway than to fix it after it's done.

Ask for a Mirror: Before you get up, your barber should offer you a mirror to check the back and sides. This is your final opportunity to ask for any touch-ups or adjustments.

Ask for Advice: If you're unsure how to style your new cut, ask your barber for tips and product recommendations. They can show you how to maintain the look at home.

Building a good relationship with a barber is invaluable. Once you find a barber who understands your hair and your style, stick with them. The trust and understanding built over time will lead to consistently great haircuts with less and less explanation needed. By preparing for your appointment and communicating with confidence, you can ensure every visit to the barbershop leaves you looking and feeling your best.

Understanding Your Unique Hair

Before you even step into the barbershop, knowing the unique characteristics of Black hair is your first power move. Our hair is a complex and beautiful biological structure, and understanding its distinct nature is crucial for healthy grooming.

The Science of Your Curl Pattern: Hair isn't just a simple fiber; it's a dynamic structure with specific properties. While early methods of classifying hair often incorrectly linked hair type to race, modern science shows that hair curliness is more about its phenotype—its visible characteristics—rather than strictly its racial origin. This means that while many individuals of African descent have very curly or coiled hair, curliness itself exists across all ancestries.

Your hair forms its curl right from the scalp, generated by a curved hair follicle. Unlike straight hair, which typically comes from follicles embedded at right angles to the scalp, curly hair follicles have a distinctive curve and an uneven shape or cell distribution. This internal structure, along with specific proteins and lipids within the hair fiber, determines how curly your hair is.

To help you and your barber speak the same language about your unique texture, the Andre Walker Hair Typing System is widely accepted by consumers and hair care professionals. This system breaks down hair into four main types, with subcategories for different curl tightness and thickness:

• Type 1 (Straight): Ranges from fine and thin (1A) to coarse and resistant to curling (1C).

  
  

• Type 2 (Wavy): Falls between straight and curly, from fine and thin (2A) to coarse and frizzy (2C), characterized by a definite "S" shape.

  
  

• Type 3 (Curly): Features more defined curls, from loose and shiny (3A) to bouncy ringlets and tight corkscrews (3B) that have more volume.

  
  

• Type 4 (Kinky/Tightly Coiled): This is where most Black hair falls. It's often misunderstood as coarse, but is actually fine with densely packed, thin strands.

  • 4A: Characterized by tight coils that form a clear "S" pattern when stretched.

  • 4B: Features less defined curls, bending in a "Z" shape with sharp angles.

  • 4C: An extension that describes extremely tight, interwoven small curls, often with a high degree of shrinkage.

    
    

Understanding your specific curl type will empower you and your barber to pick styles that work with your hair's natural tendencies, minimizing potential damage and maximizing its health and aesthetic appeal.

Selected References:

• Adhikari, K. et al. (2016). A genome-wide association scan in admixed Latin Americans identifies loci influencing facial and scalp hair features, Nature Communications.

• Cloete, E., Khumalo, N.P. and Ngoepe, M.N. (2019). The what, why and how of curly hair: a review, Proceedings of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences.

• Krueger, L. et al. (2022). Curl pattern classification: A potential tool for communication and risk stratification, Int J Womens Dermatol.