How to ask your barber for a haircut as a black man. [Part 2]

Understanding your hair's unique biology, communicating clearly with your barber, and being acutely aware of the products you use are key steps in mastering your hair game. Let's dive deep into how you can become an expert on your own hair.

Decoding the Dangers: Harmful Chemicals in Hair Products

Now, let's get real about what you put in your hair. The beauty industry, particularly products heavily marketed to Black consumers, has a serious problem with toxic chemicals. Black individuals, especially Black women, purchase and use more beauty products than any other group, spending over $7.5 billion a year and nine times more on hair products than the average consumer. This unfortunately translates to disproportionately high exposure to harmful ingredients. While much of the research in this area focuses on Black women due to their higher usage of specific product categories, the chemicals found in many of these products are dangerous for everyone, including Black men.

The Hidden Threats: Many personal care products, including those used in salons, contain industrial chemicals linked to serious health problems and environmental harm. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has only banned or restricted a mere eleven ingredients from cosmetics, a stark contrast to the European Union, which has banned nearly 1,800 chemicals known to cause cancer, birth defects, or reproductive harm. This severe lack of regulation in the U.S. especially harms Black communities who are often targeted with these products.

Some of the most concerning chemicals found in hair products include:

• Endocrine Disrupting Chemicals (EDCs): These chemicals can mess with your body's normal hormone system. Studies have found dozens of EDCs in hair products commonly used by Black women, including hot oil treatments, anti-frizz polishes, leave-in conditioners, root stimulators, hair lotions, and relaxers. These EDCs have been linked to a range of serious health issues like reproductive disorders, birth defects, asthma, and various cancers. They can even alter hormone receptors linked to conditions like breast cancer and diabetes. Disturbingly, Black women have been found to have much higher blood and urine concentrations of EDCs compared to White women.

  
  

• Formaldehyde and Formaldehyde Releasers: These are known human carcinogens (cancer-causing agents). While concerns have grown around hair relaxers containing these, newer studies show formaldehyde-releasing preservatives are in a wide range of common products like shampoos, lotions, body soaps, and even eyelash glue. These compounds often have long, strange names that do not directly include "formaldehyde," making them hard to spot on ingredient lists. Examples include DMDM hydantoin.

  
  

• Parabens and Diethyl Phthalate (DEP): These are common EDCs found in hair products marketed to Black women and children. Their widespread presence is consistent with higher levels observed in Black women's biomonitoring samples compared to White women.

  
  

• Fragrance Chemicals: Nearly all tested hair products for Black women contained fragrance chemicals, many of which are EDCs or chemicals linked to asthma. It's truly shocking, but 84% of detected chemicals in these products, including many fragrances, were not even listed on the product label, making informed consumer choice incredibly difficult.

  
  

• Heavy Metals and Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs) in Synthetic Hair: Even synthetic braiding hair, widely used by Black people for various protective styles, can contain dangerous chemicals. This includes carcinogens like benzene, unsafe levels of lead (which is linked to kidney, cardiovascular, reproductive, and brain damage), and VOCs like acetone (a respiratory irritant). These chemicals can be absorbed through the scalp or inhaled when styling.

The exposure to these chemicals is linked to significant health disparities. Studies show that Black women who regularly dye their hair with permanent dyes have a 44-75% higher risk of breast cancer. Regular use of chemical hair straighteners increases this risk by 30%. Chemical hair relaxers are associated with increased hair fragility, allergic and irritant contact dermatitis, and have been linked to breast, uterine, and ovarian cancers. They can also impact puberty (leading to earlier menarche) and fertility.

Common Hair Issues for Black Men and How to Avoid Them

Knowing your hair type and avoiding toxic chemicals is a critical start, but specific styling practices can also lead to hair loss or scalp issues. Being aware of these helps you prevent problems before they start, ensuring your hair stays healthy and vibrant.

Traction Alopecia (TA): The Pulling Problem: TA is a common form of hair loss, particularly among individuals who wear styles that pull the hair tightly for long periods. This includes popular styles like tight braids, ponytails, cornrows, dreadlocks/locs, and weaves, as well as the use of rollers or hair extensions. Chemical relaxers can also increase the risk by weakening the hair shaft. The constant pulling damages the hair follicles, and if the traumatic styling continues without intervention, it can lead to permanent scarring and irreversible hair loss. A study in Nigeria, for instance, found that adolescent girls had poor knowledge about TA, despite it being a common cause of hair loss, with hair plaiting, chemical relaxers, and hair covers being predominant practices. For men, this means being mindful of very tight dreadlocks or excessively tight braids/cornrows, and always discussing comfortable tension levels with your barber or stylist. Your style should never feel painful.

Central Centrifugal Cicatricial Alopecia (CCCA): A Scarring Concern: 

CCCA is a type of scarring alopecia that affects hair follicles, leading to permanent hair loss. While it's predominantly seen in women of African descent, it does occur in Black men too, though less frequently reported. It often begins as a patch of hair loss at the top (crown) of the scalp and spreads outwards. Symptoms can include scalp itching (pruritus), tenderness, burning sensations, and hair breakage. The exact cause isn't fully known, but genetic factors, type 2 diabetes, and bacterial scalp infections might play a role. Interestingly, in one study of 17 men with biopsy-confirmed CCCA, a staggering 88.2% identified as Black, and scalp itching was the most common symptom. Many of these men did not report high-risk hair care practices, and some showed atypical hair loss patterns involving the sides and back of the scalp, challenging the usual definition of CCCA. This highlights that even without "high-risk" practices, CCCA can be a concern for Black men, emphasizing the need for professional consultation if symptoms arise.

Managing Your Hair to Prevent Issues:

• Be Gentle with Tight Styles: If you choose braids or locs, ensure they aren't pulling too tightly on your scalp. Constant, excessive tension is the enemy of healthy follicles.

  
  

• Limit Chemical Treatments: Chemical relaxers and permanent hair dyes can significantly damage hair structure and scalp health, increasing fragility and potentially leading to other serious health issues. If you opt for these, ensure they are applied by experienced professionals who prioritize scalp health and conduct patch tests.

  
  

• Moisturize Regularly: Black hair tends to have a lower lipid content on its surface, making it more prone to dryness and breakage. Regular moisturizing with non-toxic products can help maintain elasticity and prevent damage.

  
  

• Understand Hair Porosity and Absorption: Curly hair has a unique structure that can influence how it absorbs products. This can mean that some chemical treatments and products, like certain "ethnic hair care" products, might increase the hair's ability to absorb substances, including harmful ones. This is why choosing non-toxic ingredients is so critical.

The Barber's Chair: More Than Just a Cut

Your barber is more than just someone who cuts your hair; they can be a crucial partner in your hair health journey. For Black men, barbershops have long served as vital community hubs. Barbers are uniquely positioned to be mental health advocates and even intervene in preventing violence and suicide among young Black males due to their frequent and personal interactions. They often act as a mental health lifeline through listening and can help break down stigmas around mental health. This deep community role extends naturally to hair health.

How to Ask for Your Haircut with Health in Mind: With a barber who understands the unique needs of Black hair, you're set for success. Here’s how to communicate effectively, integrating health considerations:

1. Know Your Hair Type and Desired Look:

   
   

   • Educate Yourself: Use resources like the Andre Walker Hair Typing System to understand your natural curl pattern (e.g., "I have a tight 4C coil," or "My hair is closer to a 3B curly"). This helps your barber understand your hair's inherent characteristics.

     
     

   • Bring Reference Photos: A picture is worth a thousand words. Show your barber photos of the exact style you want.

     
     

   • Be Specific About Length and Shape: Don’t just say "short." Specify: "I want a low fade on the sides, leaving about two inches on top, shaped into a square." Or, "I want my locs trimmed and neatly re-twisted, making sure they're not pulled too tight on the roots."

     
     

2. Discuss Hair Health Concerns:

   
   

   • Be Open About Scalp Issues: If you experience itching, dryness, bumps, or hair thinning (especially around the edges or crown), tell your barber. They can often spot early signs of issues like TA or CCCA.

     
     

   • Ask About Products: Inquire what products your barber uses and why. This is your chance to advocate for safer choices. You can say, "Are there non-toxic options for this style?" or "I'm trying to avoid products with parabens and formaldehyde releasers. What do you recommend?" Remember, most hair products used by Black women and children contained parabens and DEP, and a significant percentage of detected chemicals were not listed on the product label.

     
     

   • Discuss Maintenance: Ask your barber for advice on at-home care, specific product recommendations, and how often the style needs to be refreshed to maintain health. Understand that certain styles, like very tight cornrows, can lead to traction alopecia.

     
     

3. Listen and Learn:

   
   

   • A good barber will offer advice based on their expertise. They might suggest modifications to your desired style to better suit your hair type or to prevent damage. Be open to their professional recommendations.

     
     

   • Barbers, as professional salon workers, are exposed daily to potentially hazardous products. Many are concerned about their own health and their clients' health, and they want to learn more about product chemicals and safer workplace practices.

     
     

By taking control of your hair knowledge, communicating effectively with your barber, and choosing healthier products, you’re not just getting a great haircut—you’re investing in your long-term health and contributing to a powerful shift in the industry. Stay confident, stay informed, and let your hair reflect the power and health within you.

Selected References:

• Dodson, R.E. et al. (2018). Measurement of endocrine disrupting and asthma-associated chemicals in hair products used by Black women, Environmental Research.

• James-Todd, T. et al. (2021). Hormonal activity in commonly used Black hair care products: evaluating hormone disruption as a plausible contribution to health disparities, Journal of Exposure Science & Environmental Epidemiology.

• Eberle, C.E. et al. (2020). Hair dye and chemical straightener use and breast cancer risk in a large US population of black and white women, International Journal of Cancer.

• Okoro, O.E., Imam, A. and Barminas, R. (2022). Knowledge of Traction Alopecia and Hair Care Practices among Adolescents in Keffi, North-Central Nigeria, Skin Appendage Disord.

• Silva, V.M. et al. (2023). Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia in Black men: A case series highlighting key clinical features in this cohort, JAAD Case Reports.