Which hairstyle is best for black men? [Part 1]

Choosing the "best" hairstyle isn't about following a fleeting trend; it's about finding a look that genuinely suits you, reflects your personality, and complements your unique hair. For Black men, this journey is deeply personal, influenced by the incredible versatility of afro-textured hair, cultural heritage, and practical considerations. The goal is to discover a signature style that not only looks great but also feels authentically you.

Finding Your Style: The Foundation of a Great Haircut

Before you can settle on the perfect cut, it's crucial to understand the building blocks of most styles for Black men. This knowledge will not only help you identify what you like but also equip you with the language to discuss it with your barber confidently.

Know Your Hair Type: Afro-textured hair has a wide range of curl patterns, from loose coils to tight, kinky textures. Some styles, like a defined high top, work best with coily hair that can hold its shape, while others, like long twists or locs, are achievable with various hair types given enough length. Understanding your hair's natural tendencies is key to choosing a style that works with your hair, not against it.

The Science of Your Curl Pattern: Your hair is a masterpiece of nature, distinct in its structure and behavior. When we talk about Black hair, we're largely discussing curly or tightly coiled hair, which is the predominant hair shape in individuals of African descent. While there's a wide range of curliness within African hair, from loose waves to tight, intricate coils, it’s all part of the same beautiful spectrum.

From a scientific standpoint, this curliness isn't just a surface characteristic; it's rooted deep within the hair follicle itself. Curly hair fibers are generated by curved follicles that emerge angularly from the scalp, unlike straight hair which comes from follicles embedded at right angles. This curved structure also means that the hair fiber itself often has an elliptical cross-section rather than a round one, and its internal structures, like the inner root sheath (IRS) and outer root sheath (ORS), show an asymmetry that's key to its shape.

To help you and your barber speak the same language about your unique texture, the Andre Walker Hair Typing System is widely accepted by consumers and hair care professionals. This system breaks down hair into four main types, with subcategories for different curl tightness and thickness.

• Type 1 (Straight): Ranges from fine and thin (1A) to coarse and resistant to curling (1C).

  
  

• Type 2 (Wavy): Falls between straight and curly, from fine and thin (2A) to coarse and frizzy (2C), with a definite "S" shape.

  
  

• Type 3 (Curly): Features more defined curls, from loose and shiny (3A) to bouncy ringlets and tight corkscrews (3B).

  
  

• Type 4 (Kinky/Tightly Coiled): This is where most Black hair predominantly falls. It's often misunderstood as coarse, but is actually fine with densely packed thin strands.

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  • 4A: Tight coils with an "S" pattern when stretched.

    
    

  • 4B: Less defined curls, bending in a "Z" shape with sharp angles.

    
    

  • 4C: An extension that describes extremely tight, interwoven small curls.

    
    

Consider Your Face Shape: Different hairstyles can accentuate or soften your facial features. For instance, a high top fade can add height and balance to a round or diamond-shaped face. A barber can often provide recommendations on what styles will best complement your specific face shape.

Lifestyle and Maintenance: Your daily routine and how much time you're willing to dedicate to your hair are significant factors. A buzz cut is incredibly low-maintenance, while styles like 360 waves or long braids require consistent care to look their best. Be realistic about the upkeep you're prepared to handle.

The best way to find a style you love is to look for inspiration. Search online for terms like "hairstyles for Black men," "popular Black men's haircuts," or specific styles you're curious about. Websites like Pinterest and magazines are excellent sources for images. When you find a look you like, save the picture. A photo is one of the most effective tools you can bring to your barber.

The World of Fades: A Cornerstone of Modern Style

The fade is arguably one of the most popular and versatile elements in Black men's hairstyling. It involves a seamless, gradual transition of hair length from longer on top to shorter on the sides and back, often tapering down to the skin. The beauty of the fade lies in its many variations, which can be combined with nearly any other hairstyle.

• Low Fade: This subtle fade starts just above the ears and follows the natural hairline. It's a clean, understated option that's perfect for a professional setting while still offering a touch of modern style. A low fade pairs well with everything from short curls to waves.

  
  

• Mid Fade: As the name suggests, this fade begins at the midpoint of the head. It offers a more noticeable contrast than a low fade and is a versatile middle-ground for those wanting a defined but not overly dramatic look.

  
  

• High Fade: For a bold, high-contrast look, the high fade starts near the top of the head, close to the temples. This style creates a striking and fashion-forward appearance and is often paired with more defined styles on top, like a high top, frohawk, or sharp curls.

  
  

• Skin Fade (or Bald Fade): This is any fade that tapers all the way down to the bare skin. It offers the cleanest and sharpest finish possible and can be applied to low, mid, or high fades.

  
  

• Taper Fade: Often used interchangeably with "fade," a taper is technically a more gradual shortening of the hair that focuses on the sideburns and neckline. It's a classic and clean finish that can be added to almost any hairstyle for a polished look.

  
  

• Burst Fade: This distinctive fade is curved around the ear, creating a semi-circular or "burst" effect. It’s commonly paired with a mohawk or frohawk to create a standout style.

  
  

Classic and Short Styles: Timeless and Low-Maintenance

For those who prefer a sharp, easy-to-manage look, classic short haircuts are a go-to choice. These styles are both timeless and confident.

• Buzz Cut: The epitome of simplicity, the buzz cut involves clipping the hair to a uniform short length all over. It’s a minimal-effort style that exudes confidence. To add a modern twist, pair it with a skin fade.

  
  

• Caesar Cut: This ancient style, characterized by a short, horizontally cut fringe, remains a sophisticated option. It's a clean, classic look, often enhanced with waves and a taper fade for a contemporary feel.

  
  

• Flat Top: A quintessential style from the '80s and '90s, the flat top features hair on top sculpted into a level, horizontal shape, with sharply faded sides. Modern variations might be less severe, but they still showcase incredible barbering skill and a bold sense of style.

  
  

• High Top Fade: Another icon of the golden age of hip-hop, the high top fade has hair on top left significantly longer and shaped, while the sides are faded. It can be styled with defined curls or coils for a modern interpretation.

Ultimately, the best haircut is the one that makes you feel most confident. Don't be afraid to experiment and evolve your look. By understanding the options and communicating effectively with your barber, you can find a hairstyle that perfectly captures your unique personality and style.

Selected References:

• Wright, D.R., et al. (2011). Hair care practices and their association with scalp and hair disorders in African American girls. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology.